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the MAIWA JOURNAL


We have just received our new summer garments. On a sunny summer day just last week we did a photo shoot to show off some of the new arrivals.

Introducing an enticing selection of prints and weaves, coloured with natural dyes on organic cotton and fine linen. Created by today’s master craftspeople.

Cotton garments from 39.95 to 98.95.
Linen garments from 59.95 to 129.95
Shawls from 39.95 to 189.95

Here are some of our favourites from the day.










Wednesday, June 30, 2010 2 comments

It was a full house on Thursday evening as we welcomed the founders of Thr3fold: The Journal of Creative Vision. Pictured above (L-R): Linda Kemshall, Catherine Nicholls, Laura Kemshall, and Maiwa Owner Charllotte Kwon. The trio gave a visual presentation which outlined each one's creative background and their unique approach to quilt-making, journaling and surface design. The group works from a set of challenges. It would be thrilling enough to see the results that each of the three artsist produce to meet the challenge, but there is an added dimension that results from the juxtaposition of similar ideas interpreted three ways.


The three work within the overarching project of a series of books: the Thr3fold Journal. It inspires them and is the collaborative space that has brought them together across oceans and continents. The journal works as an exhibition space, that feeds their art just as their art feeds the publication. On Thursday they launched issue number five which focuses on the face. An exhibit pieces featured in issue #5 is on at Fibreworks Studio on the Sunshine Coast of BC until August 1, 2010.


Issue #5, #4 and #3 are available in the Maiwa stores and our Online Store. The books are lush, beautifully printed in the UK and contain a multimedia CD.

The audience had the pleasure of inspecting the artist's journals which were on hand. They were a perfect compliment to the large format quilts which were hanging at the opening.



7 pieces were generously donated by the group to the Maiwa Foundation for auction, including the only piece that all three had worked on directly. The bidding went quickly and the items raised $2050. Here Catherine Nicholls tours the room with a quilt and below, Maiwa's Anne Babchuk shows off one of the works for auction. Comments are welcome.





Saturday, June 26, 2010 No comments

THR3FOLD
This Thursday June 24th at 7:30 PM
Hosted by
Maiwa
in the Net Loft
Granville Island, Vancouver, Canada

There are a limited number of spaces available for this free event.
Please RSVP to hold a place.

See our previous post for full details.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010 No comments

2010 marks the second year that the Maiwa Foundation has collaborated with the UBC Engineering Department. We were approached by Carla Paterson, Annette Berndt, and Joanne Nakonechny to help with Applied Science 263: Technology and Development.

The course description reads in part:
"In accord with UBC’s commitment to 'prepare students to become exceptional global citizens, and promote the values of a civil and sustainable society', this course focuses on technology in the context of poverty and development."
The Maiwa Foundation proposed three problems that would benefit from specialized engineering knowledge. A key part of the problems was the context in which solutions would be workable and appropriate. In this post we will outline the problems. In a later post we will follow up with some thoughts from this year's poster session.

1) Furnace improvements for rural bellmakers.

In the India's Kutch desert, located in western Gujarat, metal bells are made with simple hand tools and then plated through a process that involves the use of a kiln. The bells are dipped in a powdered mixture of copper and brass, covered with a clay jacket to keep the coating on, and fired. The kiln uses charcoal as a fuel and an electric blower to increase the flow of oxygen and raise the temperature. Charcoal is expensive and increasingly difficult to obtain in the quantities needed. Variations in temperature sometimes result in a failure of the coating.



2) Toxic dyeing outside Jaipur.

Jaipur is known as a historic centre for blockprinting. Over time many blockprinters switched to using the much faster silkscreening process with chemical dyes. When Jaipur prepared for the historic Heritage Festival (which comes with a UNESCO heritage city designation) one of the recommendations was that the toxic silkscreening shops be cleaned up. A very large number relocated to just outside Jaipur in Sanganer. Silkscreening is done with Rapid dyes, Napthol dyes and Azo dyes (certain Azo dyes have been banned in Europe since 2002). The wash water from dyeing is run into the fields or local ditch, this water has high concentrations of toxins and salt (salt is often used at an equal weight to the fabric being dyed). The spent dyes show up on local well water (often as far down as 200 feet). A number of health problems may be traced back to dye effluents.




3) Bleach works on the banks of the Ganges.

Here in the west we buy a lot of clothes. Often what has gone out of fashion, is no longer used or doesn't fit is given to thrift stores. When the thrift stores are overloaded containers of discarded clothing are sent to developing countries. In India container loads of used clothing arrive in small villages located one to two hours outside Kolkata (Calcutta). The garments are shredded and bleached with sodium hydrosulphite to be reused as mattress ticking (stuffing). Cement tanks are built on the banks of the river to take advantage of the ready supply of water. The spent bleach water is emptied from the cement tank onto the riverbank where it runs directly back into the river. The river is central to Indian life. Bathing, washing and fishing all take place within sight of the bleach works. The problem is new and growing quickly throughout India. In 2008 we sighted the first tank, in 2010 there were a dozen more. The impact is considerable. Small village roads cannot handle the large transport of shipping containers, but the most problematic element is, of course, the degradation of water quality.

Sunday, June 20, 2010 No comments


We came across this book more than a year ago when we were doing research for a presentation on natural fibers and slow clothes. Beautiful Sheep: Portraits of Champion Breeds is written by Kathryn Dun - and she has done an excellent job -but it is the portraits themselves which fascinated us. There is such diversity of character in the breeds, and we can see how some would have been encouraged for the fibres in their coats. Specific qualities that would make the wool good for hand-spinning or dyeing. In some cases, a renewed interest in hand spinning and knitting is all that has kept certain breeds from extinction.

Paul Farnham, a UK fashion photographer who trained with Annie Liebowitz, switched from thin women in urban settings to leggy ovines in the country. According to a review in the Telegraph the sheep were just as fussed over as his human models and there was the added problem of your car getting bogged down in farmer's fields. The results are wonderful, however, and the book makes for an entertaining and delightful entry into the world of UK sheep breeds.

We loved it so much we decided to carry it and put it in our online bookstore as well. We found a second review on Photoshelter and and after reading the book we have to agree with their summary: "I think Mr. Kerry Hill is the most handsome. But Zwartbles clearly has a better name."

Buy Beautiful Sheep.




Thursday, June 17, 2010 1 comments



Maiwa has removed this content because it was out of date.

Monday, June 14, 2010 No comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Dyeing to Discharge
Carol Soderlund

$495 (Includes $100 Lab Fee) - Five full days

November 1 - 5 (Mon - Fri) 9am - 5pm
Maiwa East - 1310 Odlum Drive, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 16

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

the possibilities of discharge – the removal of colour from dyed cloth. Using both commercial fabrics and cloth dyed specifically for discharge, the student will selectively remove and replace colour, gaining an in-depth understanding of both thiox and bleach discharge processes.

Immersion with clamp and pole-wrap techniques, as well as stencil, screen-printing, and block-printing techniques, will be used to create striking imagery with complex layering of colour. Illumination dyeing (the simultaneous removal and addition of colour) will be explored. Fabric samples showing specific dye colours and how they discharge will be produced for both cotton and silk. Safe studio practices are emphasized.


CAROL SODERLUND

Carol Soderlund’s works have been exhibited nationally and internationally since 1985 in such venues as Visions and American Quilting Society shows and have received numerous awards, including Best of Show at the 1989 International Quilt Festival and Best Use of Color at the Pennsylvania National Quilt Exhibition 2000. She has taught colour, fabric dyeing, colour-mixing techniques, and quilting throughout North America and is currently working on a book on these subjects.

“My work is primarily driven by a passion for colour interactions, the illusions they create, the luminosity they can bring to a surface. I love creating my own palette of fabric through painting, dyeing, and other surface design processes including discharge, shibori, stamping, screening, and foiling. My goal in design is to have a piece that intrigues the viewer at first glance and then continues to reveal surprises upon every inspection.”
www.carolsoderlund.com

Student Supply List

Apron and old clothes
Heavy dishwashing gloves
Respirator equipped with multi-gas, acid-gas or broad spectrum filter (These are available from hardware stores, Maiwa Handprints, and Pro Chem
Selection of black fabrics. One half-metre piece prewashed with synthrapol. Label each with manufacturer and location of purchase.
1 or 2 black cotton T-shirts. Hanes has discharged well. Note: Not all black fabrics will discharge and they will discharge differently depending on the discharge agent used. For bleach discharge, you can test a small swatch with a Clorox bleach pen. If you find one that discharges to white or a light tan, you might want to buy a lot of it.
Hand-dyed fabric - bring what you have on hand. You do not need to purchase any if you do not have some already. You may want to bring some of the commercial hand dyed or batik fabrics from Bali. Bring a few metres of each, washed at home in hot water and synthrapol. This is a great opportunity to radically change those "dogs" you have dyed. You will be amazed.
Found objects for stamping designs
One roll of double-stick tape
Notebook
2 plastic lasagna-sized pans, Rubbermaid, Takeaway, or Gladware brand
4 plastic square containers or bowls with lids (4-cup size) eg. Ziploc
1 box of heavy-duty 1-gallon Ziploc bags
Please bring a bag lunch. All other materials provided.


The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Monday, June 14, 2010 No comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Feltmaking
Rene Evans

$225 (Includes $70 Lab Fee) - Two full days

October 30, 31 (Sat - Sun) 10am - 4pm
Maiwa East - 1310 Odlum Drive, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 14

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

Felt is one of the oldest known forms of manipulated fibre. Felting appears coincidental with animal husbandry and produces a range of items from clothing and toys to sculpture, tents, and even industrial tools. Often an art and tradition of nomadic peoples, felting is making a worldwide resurgence and is gaining recognition.

In this two-day, project-oriented workshop, students will explore the many aspects of felt, from three-dimensional hats, boots, and bags to warm felt coats and lightweight, gossamer “nuno” felts. Students will learn basic feltmaking techniques by creating a sample binder of felts of different weights and felts from different wool fibres. Students will select a final project which can be a 3D project (such as a hat, bag, boots), flat felt yardage, or “nuno” yardage (such as scarf or vest fronts). The techniques learned in the workshop can be applied to all felted projects.


RENE EVANS

Born and educated in New Zealand, Rene Evans has always had a love for fine wools. But it was not until she returned to weaving in 1995 that she developed a deep love and appreciation for the art of feltmaking. In 1996 she was introduced to the Fashion Design Program at University College of the Fraser Valley (UCFV). In January 2001 she became the Weaving instructor within the Fashion Design Program at UCFV. From 1997 to 2002 Rene Evans served as the Exhibits Chair for Convergence 2002 Vancouver and sat as a member of the Steering Committee.

Student Supply List

A washboard (if you have one)
Plastic grocery bags for transporting wet felt
Rubber gloves
Please bring a bag lunch. All other materials provided.



The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Monday, June 14, 2010 No comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Between the Colours: Creative Resist
Natalie Grambow

$225 (Includes $60 Lab Fee) Three full days

November 12 - 14 (Fri - Sun) 10am - 4pm
Maiwa East - 1310 Odlum Drive, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 14

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

This very popular workshop has expanded to three full days. Here students will obtain a comprehensive understanding of resists: what advantage each might have, what effects can be obtained, and what the proper techniques are for manipulating fabric, colour, and resist. This course is an ideal introduction to resist as a vital element of surface design.

The class will work with fibre-reactive dyes, fabric paints, discharge agents, and water-based paste resists including flour paste, potato starch, corn dextrin, and devore. Students will also study a variety of pre-made resists such as wax emulsion, Presist, Sabra-silk, gutta, glue gels, and puff pigments (to create puckered effects).

Finally, students will study hot wax resist and a range of Shibori resists including pole-wrapping clamped resist and stitch-bound resist. Students will leave the workshop with many samples showing a variety of techniques and effects. A final project will also be completed.




NATALIE GRAMBOW

Natalie Grambow has an extensive background in design, teaching, and textile arts. An accredited Interior Designer, she spent many years in Ottawa working within the architectural design field and teaching Design Theory. Natalie’s first deep exploration of textiles began during her Visual Arts/Photography studies at the University of Ottawa when she experimented with non-silver techniques of transferring photographic imagery onto cloth. She subsequently studied at the École d’Impression Textile à Montréal and later travelled to Asia and Latin America where she spent six months learning to weave with local Mayan weavers in Guatemala. Shortly after completing the Textile Arts program at Capilano College in 2001, she was awarded the BC Craft Association’s Award of Excellence. Natalie has developed a line of naturally dyed and printed fabrics and has been commissioned by such clients as the city of North Vancouver (to present an artist’s vision of North Vancouver on fabric).

Student Supply List

Please bring a bag lunch. All materials supplied.

The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Thursday, June 10, 2010 No comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Works on Canvas
Natalie Grambow

$185 (Includes $60 Lab Fee) Two full days

October 28, 29 (Thur, Fri) 10 am - 4 pm
Maiwa East - 1310 Odlum Drive, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 14

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

Canvas is for artists, and an unstretched canvas is an open invitation for the surface designer to begin exploration. Using combinations of mixed-media, fabric paints, and succulent colour palettes, students will engage the canvas surface through altered art techniques, image transfer, collage, and deconstruction.

In this highly creative workshop, suitable for both the novice and experienced artist, participants will be guided through the steps of making an art cloth. The workshop will explore a number of pattern-making techniques, including block-printing, mono-printing, hand-painting, stencilling, screen-printing, and scratching. In addition, collage and piecing with image transfers, over-“inking,” antiquing, washes, and finishing will be covered. Students will complete several inspiring projects, including a finished art cloth.

The finished works can be used as floor coverings (floorcloth), wall mounted in traditional frames, used as table runners, hung as posters, or combined into other projects.


NATALIE GRAMBOW

Natalie Grambow has an extensive background in design, teaching, and textile arts. An accredited Interior Designer, she spent many years in Ottawa working within the architectural design field and teaching Design Theory. Natalie’s first deep exploration of textiles began during her Visual Arts/Photography studies at the University of Ottawa when she experimented with non-silver techniques of transferring photographic imagery onto cloth. She subsequently studied at the École d’Impression Textile à Montréal and later travelled to Asia and Latin America where she spent six months learning to weave with local Mayan weavers in Guatemala. Shortly after completing the Textile Arts program at Capilano College in 2001, she was awarded the BC Craft Association’s Award of Excellence. Natalie has developed a line of naturally dyed and printed fabrics and has been commissioned by such clients as the city of North Vancouver (to present an artist’s vision of North Vancouver on fabric).

Student Supply List

All materials supplied.

The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Thursday, June 10, 2010 No comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Fair Isle Knitting
Venessa Bentley

$150 (Includes $50 Lab Fee) Two full days

October 27, 28 (Wed, Thu) 10 am - 4 pm
Maiwa Loft - Net Loft Granville Island, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 16

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

Fair Isle is a tiny isolated island off the coast of Scotland. Fair Isle knitting is a distinctive form of circular, stranded-colour knitting inspired by the seaside, meadows, moorlands, and skies of this distant place. The art of Fair Isle knitting is marked by rich colours and varied geometric designs.

Over the two days of this workshop, traditional Fair Isle patterns and techniques will be explored as we work through a small steeked (a knitted bridge, or temporary margin of stitches) project. Students will individualize their projects through pattern and placement while learning the skills needed to begin a larger Fair Isle project on their own.

Basic knitting skills are required for this class.


VENESSA BENTLEY

Venessa Bentley grew up knitting and stitching and now works as an instructor, designer, and consultant in the needle, fibre, and textile arts. Venessa graduated from the Textile Arts Diploma Program at Capilano College. She also holds a Bachelor’s degree, a Post-Baccalaureate Diploma in Fine Arts Education, and a Professional Teaching Certificate from Simon Fraser University. She is currently working on her Master Spinner certificate through Olds College, Alberta. Venessa serves on the board of directors for Circle Craft and is a member of the Langley Weavers and Spinners Guild, the Canadian Guild of Knitters, the Westcoast Knitters, the Knitting Guild of America, and the Surface Design Association. www.venessabentley.ca


Student Supply List

General knitting accessories kit.

The Maiwa studio is stocked with knitting needles for student's use in the classroom. If you have your own needles it is advisable to bring them so you can take unfinished work home on the needles to complete. The needles used in this class are: Both 4mm (US 6) and 4.5mm (US 7) in choice of double-pointed needles or short circular needles eg 30cm (12”) or 40cm (16”). Unlocking stitch markers will also be used.

All other materials supplied.



The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Thursday, June 10, 2010 No comments
The new issue of Wild Fibers has just hit the stands. This one contains the story of the Maiwa Foundation's experiences in Ethiopia conducting workshops in the Sabahar silk garden. The Foundation was able to share some of its natural dye knowledge through Charllotte Kwon, who spent two weeks working in the Sabahar dye-room reviewing procedures and recipes and teaching new techniques. We also made a trip into rural Africa where we encountered Saturday markets and memorably dangerous roads.

It was an important time for us - expanding our knowledge of eri silk and Ethiopian cotton, getting a chance to work with Ethiopian spinners and weavers, and meeting Kathy Marshall - the woman who founded Sabahar.

This issue also contains a cover story on Robari shepards. We carry the embroidery of highly skilled Robari women who we work with through the KMVS cooperative. We've added this issue to our online store and you can get a copy here.

For more information, or to get a subscription please visit the Wild Fibers Website.
Tuesday, June 08, 2010 No comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Hand Hooked Rugs
Michelle Sirois-Silver

$165 (Includes $40 Lab Fee) Two full days

October 25 - 27 (Mon - Wed) 10 am–4 pm
Maiwa Loft - Net Loft Granville Island, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 16

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

"The first time I watched someone pull up fabric strips through a backing, I knew instantly that this was the craft for me. The serenity of that moment stays with me today, and 14 years later my passion for hand hooked rugs continues to grow and flourish. I often think back to Canada in the mid-1800s and to the men and women for whom making a hooked rug was a matter of thrift. For many it would be their only opportunity for creative expression, and I believe they would laugh to hear me call their rugs art or sustainable. They were making rugs to warm their beds and keep out cold winter drafts. They didn’t hook rugs to last a hundred years and yet they left us a legacy rich in history and storytelling."

In this two-day workshop students learn the basic rug hooking and finishing techniques needed to make their own hand hooked rugs and accessories. Each student receives individual one-on-one attention from the instructor. They may select from one of three designs provided by the instructor and are welcome to create their own design. Students will leave the workshop with a completed hand hooked 20 x 20 cm sampler. Topics covered in the workshop include selecting fabrics and backing, sourcing supplies, and the history of hand hooked rugs in Canada.

This two day workshop is ideal for those who are beginners as well as those who are relatively new to the craft and may want to refresh they skills.


MICHELLE SIROIS-SILVER

Michelle Sirois-Silver is a McGown certified instructor and teaches rug hooking workshops on design and colour planning in Canada and the United States.

Her work has been exhibited at fibreEssence, Contemporary Craft in BC, Surface Design Traveling Exhibition, FibreWorks Gallery, Convergence, Gibsons Fibre Arts Festival, and at the Silk Purse Arts Centre. She has a Creative Arts Diploma from Vanier College, a BA Specialization in Communications Concordia University, and a Public Relations Certificate from the University of Toronto. She studied colour theory with Michele Wipplinger and at BCOU. Ms. Sirois-Silver first began teaching rug hooking in 1998 and formed Big Dog Hooked Rug Designs in 2004. www.bigdogrugs.com.

Student Supply List

All materials provided.


The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Sunday, June 06, 2010 1 comments
2010 Maiwa Textile Workshops
Full listings are now up.

Funk Shui Felting
Jessica de Haas

$275 (Includes $85 Lab Fee) Three full days

October 25 - 27 (Mon - Wed) 10 am–4 pm
Maiwa East – 1310 Odlum, Vancouver, Canada
Class Limit 14

Registration Opens June 21, 2010

In this exploratory three-day workshop, students dive into the exciting and magical world of felt. The workshop will use both ancient and contemporary techniques and is suitable for both beginning and experienced felters looking to refine their skills and expand their creative vision.

Workshop participants will discover the many fascinating ways to create pattern and design on the felted surface. These include fabric inlays, colour layering and cutout, creation and use of partial felts and wool and silk "papers" to achieve crisp lines, and working with a dyebath.

Students will be guided through a series of sample-making projects, and all projects will be mounted in a sample book for future reference and inspiration. Participants will also select a final project, such as a wall hanging or yardage, to further explore what they have learned.

JESSICA DE HAAS

Jessica de Haas loves the snow, but not being cold. Growing up in the mountains of Canada necessitated keeping warm, but the lumberjack styles weren’t for her. After more than a decade of international travel, studies in fibre arts, and experimentation in personal expression, she decided to settle down and plant the seeds of Funk Shui, creating warm felted clothing and accessories. Her art reflects her personality – warm, adventurous, earthy, and multifaceted. To view her work, visit www.propagatelove.com.

Student Supply List

Sketchbook with writing and drawing implements (pens, pencils, coloured pencils, etc.)
1 plastic grocery or produce bag
1 recycled newspaper
For inspiration: bring 3 samples of pattern motifs or imagery in any form (magazine, photo, textile ...)
Any lightweight fabric scraps or fibres from your home stash (chiffon, gauze, organza - anything is possible)
Please bring a bag lunch. All other materials provided.


The full course calendar is on the web. Registration opens June 21, 2010.


Sunday, June 06, 2010 No comments

Here are a few shots from yesterday's Ocelot Fashion Show. It was a great event and went off flawlessly. Music was by Zamir Dhanji and set the mood with his haunting tones and rhythms. The clothing was a sensation, perfectly accented by the jewelry of Jan Smith.

For those who couldn't make the show, or just want to see the clothing again there is an Exhibition Opening tonight (June 3rd) at 6pm at the Silk Weaving Studio on Granville Island. The Exhibition will run until June 30, 2010.











Did you get a chance to see the show? Share your impressions in the comments section.

Thursday, June 03, 2010 No comments

New to the store is Sandra Niessen's impressive volume Legacy in cloth: Batak textiles of Indonesia. The work offers the first definitive study of the woven heritage of the Toba, Simalungun, and Karo Batak. The most complete analysis of Batak textiles ever published, it provides a record of more than 100 different design types, including archival and contemporary photographs showing how the textiles are woven and how they are used in Batak culture. Legacy benefits from fieldwork conducted over two decades and consultation of all major European collections of Batak textiles and private collections in Indonesia.

2009, Leiden: KITLV Press. 568 pps. 900 illustrations. ISBN 978 90 6718 351 2 Available online or in our stores. $80.00 cdn.

We met with Sandra in the fall as she came through Vancouver. She had a sample of the book with her and it was nothing short of stunning. It is a comprehensive work filled with wonderfully detailed photos and writing. With the book completed Sandra was making plans to revisit the villages where she had conducted her research to present the weavers with a copy of the book. To quote Sandra,

"In the summer of 2010, I will be returning to North Sumatra, to visit all of the villages and the weavers that I met during my fieldwork for Legacy in cloth, Batak textiles of Indonesia. I have fulfilled my obligations to museums and archives who have requested a copy of Legacy for copyright purposes. I feel this obligation even more strongly towards the weavers, however, even though they gave their knowledge to me freely and with no counter-demands. They have a right to the full compendium of information that I have gathered and to see their pictures published in the book!"

You can learn more about both Sandra and her work on her website www.bataktextiles.com and her blog bataktextiles.blogspot.com. Sandra's website gives considerable detail about her studies in indonesia and what motivates her enthusiasm for both anthropology and weaving. Her work is an inspiration to us. We feel her book has raised the bar for publications in the textile arts. Comments are welcome.

Tuesday, June 01, 2010 No comments
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