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the MAIWA BLOG


These Jutis are handmade in Jodhpur, a city known for the intricate detail of its designs and the skill of its artisans. Soft leather is the canvas for exquisite Ari embroidery, the fine needlework technique which adorns the uppers. A plush, padded leather insole completes the shoe.

The leather softens and offers a nice give with wear.

These jutis are perfect to slip on and head to an event or wear around the house. They are also lovely as decoration because they are just so stunning.




Our Jutis are available at:
Maiwa on Granville Island 7 days a week between 10am and 7pm
And Online at maiwa.com



Thursday, May 31, 2018 No comments
Indigo on cotton. Charllotte Kwon stretches a skein taut to check the colour.

In November of 2017 Kolkata turned blue. Or, at least, it did in the minds of those attending the Indigo Sutra Conference — a conference dedicated to the study and use of indigo. As part of this conference Maiwa’s Charllotte Kwon and Tim McLaughlin presented a lecture, guided a panel discussion and gave a full-day workshop on how to build and maintain a natural indigo vat using a number of natural techniques.

Tim McLaughlin, Charllotte Kwon and Jabbar Khatri at Indigo Sutra.

A core concern of the conference was how synthetic indigo was being marketed (and costed) as if it were natural. There are a number of problems with this. The loss of livelihood of indigo farmers, the loss of skills needed to make traditional indigo vats and the loss of the network of connections which farmers and artisans create. These fundamental problems are only made worse when the buying public begins to loose confidence in the quality and the very nature of indigo. Indigo Sutra gave a forum to raise these questions and to begin talking about answers.

It was the practical workshop, however, that we were most anxious about. We knew a number of the artisans who were present at the conference and we wanted them to be front and centre in the discussion of making and maintaining a vat. We were among old friends. Dyers from the Living Blue project in Bangladesh arrived. Dyers and weavers from the village of Bhujodi in Kuchchh, were there. We reunited with Jabbar and Ismail Khatri. Jabbar was at the front of the class teaching with us; as was Bappa Biswas, Pankaj Shah, and Mahesh Dosaya.

Jabbar Khatri, Pankaj Shah, Mahesh Dosaya, Bappa Biswas and Charllotte Kwon teaching "The Vat Mechanic" at Indigo Sutra.

As is often the case in India, the workshop was a linguistic tour de force: taught in English, Gujarati, Hindi, and Bengali. We called it: “The Vat Mechanic” and the idea was that you could learn how to build, maintain, and correct an indigo vat made with a wide range of local ingredients. We countered objections about using local fruits (you use over-ripe fruits not suitable for eating). And we gave some criteria for determining the behavior of the vat.

We kept our eyes on a group of Bengal weavers who were extremely keen. They were all of the right age to have a hazy memory of natural dyes. These weavers knew about natural dyes in the same way that, for example, in a restaurant, a waiter knows the work of the chef. These weavers moved in a world where there were many ways to colour cloth and yarn, but they no longer had the recipes or skills to make a pot of colourfast natural dye themselves.

At the conclusion of our Indigo workshop they invited us to modify our itinerary and visit them in their village. We decided we needed to go.

On the road in rural Bengal: a Bicycle with baskets, the jute harvest stacked to dry, and an endless stream of transport trucks.

Rural Bengal is flat and lush. It is blanketed in a green quilt of rice paddies, sugar cane fields, and shallow ponds stocked with the fish that make up such a large part of the Bengali diet. Once out of Kolkata the roads are clogged with tractors, scooters and bicycles carrying whatever is in season - when we visited it was jute and cauliflower. The jute is stacked - teepee style - on the side of the highway to dry. The cauliflower is stacked on anything that will move in order to get it to market.

Once in the village we looked at the dyeing set-up. On this visit we would be working with indigo and reviewing the technique we taught in our workshop - but tweaked to suit the dye studio at hand. Our first assessment is usually looking at dye pots and what they are made of.

The dyeing setup when we arrived. Ideally the pot should be deep so as to minimize exposed surface area, and not be aluminum (as the aluminum oxide makes reducing the vat more difficult).

Unlike most dyes, indigo can be used cold. This is, in fact, key to some traditional techniques like the dabu mud resist, where the resist will not tolerate a long soak in a heated dye bath (such as you might use for madder). However, traditional indigo vats often depend on a fermentation or enzyme reaction to dissolve the indigo. These natural processes fail if the temperature drops too much — as it does during the winter night (November - February) in Bengal.

So our first task is really a rather simple one:  find a non-aluminum pot that can be heated or locate an immersion heater. Immersion heaters are quite common in India. They are simply a metal heating element with a special handle that hooks on the side of a pail. You plug them into an electrical outlet and you’re good to go. If you have a metal dye pot, you fill it with a portion of the mother vat, heat it, and return it to the mother vat to bring up the temperature.

The blue studio. The Indigo Sutra conference created a demand for indigo textiles and the motivation for artisans to reconsider the quality of their process.

Artisans who always use a chemical vat loose these tricks. All indigo vats can be, on occasion, temperamental. But the solutions used for a chemical vat usually involve throwing more chemicals at the vat (either a reducing agent or more indigo). Such vats can be expensive or inefficient to run. On our recent trip we were shocked when artisans told us how much indigo they were putting in the vat. A properly made vat is both economical and efficient. Moreover it does not have the disposal problems that some chemical vats have.

We left the village and continued north. We visited other artisans in ever more remote areas. This is one aspect of Maiwa that we have always been proud of — how far we are willing to go to do our site visits. In any part of the world, the only way to see what is actually being done is to see it with your own eyes. 

Sometimes what is waiting for you, out on the small roads and after several wrong turns, is worth the expense and time of getting there. Sometimes it is not what you had hoped for but it is just as important to find. A remote location with a reputation for ecological leadership dyeing with synthetic indigo in a plastic pan and dumping the spent vat in the gully was not what we had hoped for. But it did strengthen our resolve to help turn things around.

The long rainy road back to Kolkata.

On our way back to Kolkata we visited the first village again. There was progress. Better than the progress, however, was the flood of questions. Things were sinking in and being thought about and that always brings questions. Our time on this November trip had run out, but we would be coming back. Yes - we would come back again. Next time we would bring a larger team and plan a longer visit. Ideas were in motion - we wanted to return once again to rural Bengal.


Our story continues with part three
when we return to Bengal in 2018.




DVD: INDIGO A WORLD OF BLUE

Indigo: A World of Blue was shot on location in southern India. The work features indigo use in Sindh, Pakistan; the Vientiane District of Loas; the island of Sumba, Indonesia; Yogyakarta, Indonesia, village Dhamadka, India; and Suleymanköy, Turkey. Featuring renowned indigo scholar Jenny Balfour Paul speaking about indigo's fascinating history, traditions, superstitions and lore.

Indigo a World of Blue is a zone-free SD DVD.
Available at a special price in our online store.


Natural Colour: The Bengal Story
Part One
Part Two
Part Three
Monday, May 28, 2018 No comments

THE GREAT INDIGO SEEDLING GIVEAWAY

We've spent the spring germinating our Indigo crop. Now we are giving it away! On Saturday May 26, 2018 get an indigo seedling free with any purchase in either the Main Maiwa Store or Maiwa Supply. Seedlings come with an instruction card to help you plant them out. While supplies last.


DYEING DEMO - SATURDAY MAY 26/18 10am - 3 pm
Join us outside Maiwa Supply on Saturday May 26 , 2018 for demonstrations of dyeing with natural indigo. This is your chance to witness the incredible transformation that happens when cloth is dyed in an organic indigo vat. Indigo changes colour as it emerges from a vat - going from a yellowy green to a deep, satisfying, indigo blue.


INDIGO TEXTILES AND SEEDS
Our main store has a "feature rack" of our favourite blues. See a variety of garments - all naturally dyed with natural indigo. All will display a special tag with a tiny glass vial of indigo seeds, sealed with a cork and blue wax (Online garments do not come with a vial of seeds). Beautiful garments, shawls and scarves carry the seeds of the future.



Pictured above: multi-layer indigo dyed jacket, China.

IN-STORE EXHIBITION
We've selected the very best indigo textiles from the Maiwa Textile Collection and placed them in the Main Store. See how textile traditions from around the world have expressed themselves in indigo. Pieces from the Maiwa Textile Collection are not for sale. This exhibition remains up until June 3rd.


THE BEST OF THE BLUES
We've grouped all of our indigo-dyed online textiles into a special collection. Scroll through everything that has been touched by this magical dye.





THE INDIGO HARVEST
In southern India indigo dye is obtained from Indigofera tinctoria. Indigofera is a beneficial crop because it returns nitrogen to the soil. In many places it is grown in rotation and simply ploughed under (without ever extracting the colour). When it is grown for the dye, the crop can be naturally weeded by pasturing cows or goats — they eat the weeds but not the indigo. Depending on the weather, a single plant can give 2 to 3 harvests a year. 

INDIGO EXTRACTION
Once cut, the indigo plants are placed in a large extraction tank, covered with water and allowed to soak until they ferment. The fermentation transforms indican (present in the leaves) to indoxyl (a soluble form of indigo). The water containing indoxyl is drained off and then whipped to introduce oxygen. The oxygen transforms the indoxyl to indigo. The indigo settles to the bottom where it is collected and concentrated into cakes. This is powdered indigo - the most famous dye in the world. 

GET YOUR BLUES FROM US
Maiwa sells natural indigo extracted from crops grown in southern India. We carry everything you need to get started; like the natural indigo kit and keep going, like our largest size of indigo. In addition we offer an instruction sheet for Indigo and Woad and The Organic Vat.


Our collection of all things indigo available at:
The Maiwa Main Store and Maiwa Supply on Granville Island 7 days a week between 10am and 7pm
And Online at maiwa.com



DVD: INDIGO A WORLD OF BLUE

Indigo: A World of Blue was shot on location in southern India. The work features indigo use in Sindh, Pakistan; the Vientiane District of Loas; the island of Sumba, Indonesia; Yogyakarta, Indonesia, village Dhamadka, India; and Suleymanköy, Turkey. Featuring renowned indigo scholar Jenny Balfour Paul speaking about indigo's fascinating history, traditions, superstitions and lore.

Indigo a World of Blue is a zone-free SD DVD.
Available at a special price in our online store.








Thursday, May 24, 2018 No comments
Items Shown: Ahilia Tank and Tulsi Skirt

Since the time of the industrial revolution, cultural critics have claimed that mass manufacturing destroys the connection between life and work. Today, many people don’t know how cotton grows or who farms it; few understand how it is dyed or woven into cloth, and we may have witnessed the last generation to regularly make their own clothes. To fill this void modern clothing is heavily branded—and the story of the brand fills the space that used to be filled by the voice of the cloth itself.


Items Shown: Veda Dress, Jai Jacket, WomenWeave Wild Tussar Silk & Organic Cotton Scarf

We like to move a little slower, and take a little longer, to make clothes that you can keep a lifetime. We want to make clothes you return to again and again — like a friend who listens to your stories, like a friend who makes you feel your best.

Items Shown: Tulsi Jacket and Ahilia Tank

If we can choose between a printed piece of cloth and a plain one—we will choose the printed. If we can choose between handloomed cloth and mill-made—we will go for the handloom. Every time we make these decisions, we keep a group of artisans working at their craft. These are often multi-generation artisan families who are beginning to enjoy an international reputation. Craft is about trade. If there is no demand, even the most skilled craftsperson must abandon their work.

Items Shown: Onam Top Dusty Rose, Onam Top Fern, Tulsi Skirt Fern, Tulsi Skirt Sienna

We seek to turn modern clothing upside down. We don’t want to raise outputs and cut costs and build factories. We want to work alongside artisans in a village setting. We think such partnerships are the only truly sensible long-term business plan. Do we believe in combining work and pleasure? Absolutely. We want to create a work environment that we would be happy to live in for generations to come.

These are the ideas behind every timeless Maiwa garment.





Our clothing collection is available at:
Maiwa on Granville Island 7 days a week between 10am and 7pm
And Online at maiwa.com



Wednesday, May 16, 2018 No comments
NATURAL DYES FOR THE BOOK ARTS

 Ink

Long ago Maiwa established itself as a leader in natural dyes. We supply makers with raw ingredients, teach a range of natural dye techniques and encourage the continuation of traditional processes worldwide.

Now we are pleased to take our knowledge into the book arts. Maiwa's ink maker, Tim McLaughlin (@artisan_ink) has formulated a special logwood iron gall ink to celebrate this new endeavour. The ink is bottled in porcelain vessels specially commissioned for this project and thrown by BC potter Robert Bush. The ink pots are stoppered with a cork and sealed with wax. There are only 40 bottles available. Each pot is numbered. We've divided the stock between our online store, and displays in our Granville Island location and Maiwa East.


 Pen & Ink


 Ink

 ABOUT INK

This is a special formulation of traditional iron gall ink. The inclusion of logwood gives this ink an immediate purple black. Once on paper, the ink will oxidize to give a permanent, waterproof, black - as dark and as profound as a starless night. Iron gall inks give clear hairlines and bold blacks when used for pointed pen or Spencerian calligraphy. The inclusion of logwood permits a significant reduction in the amount of ferrous contained in this ink.


For use with dip pens or brushes (iron gall inks are not suitable for use in fountain pens). 





ABOUT THE "INK TAKES SHAPE" PROJECT

Ink Takes Shape is an annual collaboration between Maiwa's Tim McLaughlin and an artisan vessel maker. Each year will see the production of a limited edition ink housed in an artisan-made vessel. Tim teaches an inkmaking workshop as part of the Maiwa School of  Textiles. He is presently formulating a series of natural dye inks for Maiwa.


 Robert Bush Pottery

ROBERT BUSH POTTERY

A graduate of Vancouver's Emily Carr College of Art & Design, Robert Bush is known for his innovative crystalline glazes and wheel-thrown pots. He works in stoneware and porcelain using highfire reduction. Since 1981 Robert has been a member of the Circle Craft Artist's Co-operative and his work may be found in the Circle Craft gallery on Granville Island, Vancouver. Robert maintains an active studio practice. Works may also be found on his facebook page.



Visit Maiwa & Maiwa Supply on Granville Island 7 days a week between 10am and 7pm

Maiwa East at 1310 Odlum Dr. Vancouver Mon-Fri, 9am to 5pm
And Online at maiwa.com
Thursday, May 10, 2018 No comments
 WomenWeave Hand-Woven Shawls


 Visit Our WomenWeave Shawls Here


WomenWeave co-operative is creating some of the most contemporary hand-weaving being done in India today.

WomenWeave have re-invented the shawl, through manipulating the architecture of the cloth itself and working with combinations of different fibre types. Woven from beautiful soft handspun, silks, wools, and blends, these shawls have depth of personality, colourful character, and a most wonderful drape and hand. 

This is an entirely new collection of shawls which have just arrived in our Granville Island Store and online.


Our WomenWeave Shawls are available at:
Maiwa on Granville Island 7 days a week between 10am and 7pm
And Online at maiwa.com


 WomenWeave Hand-Woven Shawls

If this video doesn't play follow the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_mRA3Lfr48


 WomenWeave Hand-Woven Shawls

 WomenWeave Hand-Woven Shawls

 WomenWeave Hand-Woven Shawls


 Learn More About the WomenWeave Co-operative


 Free Shipping


JEWELLERY

Maiwa's interest in traditional cuffs, pendants, and ornament has led to a revival of classic Indian jewellery. Our new collection of Jaipur Silver has arrived in the store in time for Mother's Day. Visit us on Granville Island to see just how beautiful tradition can be.

AVAILABLE IN STORE ON GRANVILLE ISLAND IN VANCOUVER, BC
7 days a week between 10am and 7pm



 Jewellery Available In-Store

 Jewellery Available In-Store

Monday, May 07, 2018 No comments




 VISIT OUR LINEN HONEST YARNS HERE

 VISIT OUR WHOLESALE LINEN HONEST YARNS HERE

All natural fibres have their virtues. Silk is elegant. Cotton is hard-working. Wool cares for you and keeps you warm. But linen … linen is the reward. Linen has a singular character and gives a hand to fabric that is unlike anything else. It rewards the skillful weaver, knitter, dyer and artisan. 

Linen is one of the more challenging fibres to dye naturally, especially to dye well. But we feel we've nailed it. Beautiful rich jewel-like tones that are both deep and even. Lighter colours that are consistent, level, and delicate without being weak. Colours that are as satisfying to work with as the act of creating.

And now, we've taken linen yarns a step further with our new weight: Cobweb. Our lightest weight yet. These fine linen yarns are the most challenging to dye. We are more than a little proud to share them with you.

HONEST YARNS

After years of working with artisan weavers and knitters, Maiwa has developed its own line of yarns.
These yarns are everything we have been looking for in a spun fibre.
Maiwa's Honest Yarns - the voice of craft.




ABOUT OUR NEWLY ARRIVED LINEN WEIGHTS


COBWEB –  our lightest weight yarn. A 40/2 weight yarn — beautiful for weaving projects or for fine knitting and crochet lace. It loves being thrown in a shuttle and makes and ideal weft.

FINGERING – Great for fine knitting and crochet.

LACE – Great for fine knitting and crochet: summer shawls, lace projects, open work, and fine warm weather garments.

SPORT – The heaviest in our series of naturally dyed linen. Project suggestions include a market bag, draped summer sweaters, spring top, woven dish towels.


WHOLESALE LOTS
LINEN HONEST YARNS - NATURALLY DYED



 VISIT OUR WHOLESALE LINEN HONEST YARNS HERE

We are so proud of these yarns that we are offering them online in special wholesale lots. 
5 skeins each of 18 colours, all in a single weight (that's 90 skeins in all).
Our wholesale pricing is approximately 50% off.



Our Honest Yarns are available at:
Maiwa Supply on Granville Island 7 days a week between 10am and 7pm
or Online at maiwa.com



Tuesday, May 01, 2018 No comments
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