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the MAIWA JOURNAL

The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes
What they are and how to use them


Proper scouring is absolutely essential to good dyeing. Improperly scoured items do not dye evenly, the dye does not penetrate well, and the dyed item may not be fast.

Most fibres come from nature with coatings of some type. If these are not removed the dye will attach to the coating rather than to the fibre. This may not be immediately evident but over time the adjunct will separate from the fibre taking the colout with it. It is a common error to doubt the fastness or the quality of the dye when the real culprit is a freeloader who stole the dyestuff. It is best to remove all foreign matter at the beginning and start with clean fibres.

Note: Fabrics sold as “ready for dyeing” may not need scouring.

Supplies: 

Soda ash and Neutral Soap (Synthrapol) for cotton.
Orvus paste soap (for silk and wool)

Scouring cotton and other cellulose fibres:

1  Use a large vessel and fill with enough water so that the yarn or fabric may be well covered and not crowded.

2 Add 1 tsp Synthrapol (5 ml) and 4 tsps. soda ash (20 g) for each half-pound (250 g) of cotton.

3 Simmer for approximately 1 hour. Cotton is full of wax, pectic substances, and oil, all of which must be removed. The resulting wash water will be yellow brown. Bleached white cotton yarns and fabrics may not need as long.

Scouring silk and wool:

1  Use a large vessel and fill with enough water so that the yarn or fabric may be well covered and not crowded.

2 Add 1 tsp (5 ml) orvus paste soap for each pound (500 g) of dry fibre/fabric.

3 Add yarn, fleece or piece goods and heat gently (60º C, 140º F) for approximately 1 hour. Turn gently but do not agitate

4 Allow fibre to cool down slowly and then rinse in warm water. Remember overheating or sudden temperature changes will cause wool to felt.

Notes:


  • Some fleece sold as scoured has also been oiled to facilitate spinning - it will need to be scoured again.
  • Fleece and wools need to be scoured to remove natural oils (lanolin) and dirt.
  • Silks require scouring to remove sericin - the coating of the fibre that held it into a cocoon.
  • Cotton and other plant fibers require scouring to remove waxes and pectins.
  • In all cases anything that comes between the dye and the fibre will create an unwanted resist.

Comparison of unscoured cloth (left) and scoured cloth (right).
One piece of fabric was torn in half - everything other than scouring was the same.




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The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes
Table of Contents

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Wednesday, December 29, 2010 23 comments
Poinsettias at Maiwa East.

It's mid day on the 24th of December, and we'd like to wish everyone all the best for the holiday season.

Maiwa and Maiwa Supply on Granville Island will be closed on December 25th, 26th and on January 1st.

Maiwa East will be closed December 25th and 26th and will open again on December 30th (10am - 5pm) and December 31 (10am - 4pm). Maiwa East will be closed January 1st and 2nd.

After that it's back to normal. Maiwa thanks all its customers for making 2010 such a great year. You've given us drive and inspiration for many wonderful projects in 2011.

Friday, December 24, 2010 No comments

The online edition of the Turkey Red Journal for Fall 2010 has a review of Charllotte Kwon's Natural Dye workshop. The workshop takes participants through the use of natural dyes on a variety of fibres. For an interesting read check out Elizabeth Smith's review.

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Wednesday, December 22, 2010 No comments
Make any gift unique with creative (and extremely easy) blockprinting.
It is very good timing ... we have just received a new shipment of hand-carved wooden printing blocks from India. These are the same hardwood blocks that are used for the traditional Ajrakh and Dabu blockprinting techniques. They also make wonderful designs on paper, and can be used to customize christmas wrap. Here's a walk-through of the process.



This is all you will need to print your own wrapping paper for Christmas:

-a beautifully handcarved teak wood printing block
-pebeo opaque paint in your favorite colour
-a foam roller
-any recycled paper (ie - old paper bags cut up, newspaper, used wrapping paper that needs a little customizing).

Pour your paint out.

Cover your roller completely with paint.

Apply the paint evenly across the whole surface of your block.

Position your block and press firmly down on the handle.

VOILA!! the first print.

Try experimenting with repeating your block across the whole surface.

Continue matching the edges to make a repeating pattern.

Your customized wrapping paper is complete.

Other ideas? Hit us in the comments section.

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Friday, December 17, 2010 No comments


Organic cotton bedding. Naturally dyed and blockprinted by hand - transform a bed into a masterpiece. Available in all traditional bed sizes and also as pillow cases, napkins, tablecloths and cushion covers. We have the famous ajrakh prints and also patterns made by the dabu mud-resist process.

Prices range from $5.95 for napkins to $179.95 for complete king-size duvet covers.



Possibly the highest-quality embroidery being done today, artisans of the KMVS cooperative in the Kutch desert of India embellish shoulder bags, clutch bags, coin purses, eyeglass cases, cushion covers and other items. Many artisans proudly boast that their stitches will outlive the fabric. Make a statement with colour, pattern, and detail.

Prices range from $19.95 for coin purses to $98.95 for shoulder bags


The finest Jaipur silver is wrought into elegant and ornate jewelry by master craftspeople. Dazzle or beguile with a sparkle, shimmer, or glint. Bracelets, earings, pendants, necklaces in traditional, antique and new styles.

Prices range from 19.95 for simple settings to $450 for elaborate works.


Leatherwork from the Artisan's Alliance of Jawaja. Inspired when almost every member of the Vancouver audience held up one of their bags during the 2009 Textile Symposium, this group has sent new designs representing some of the finest work the cooperative has ever done.

Prices range from $16.95 for coin pouches to $198.95 for their luggage-size travel bag.


An informed selection of books. We are becoming known for our books - and not just our extensive collection of titles on textiles and techniques. Maiwa is growing a reputation for titles on travel, ethics, creativity, photography and culture. We often see outstanding books on our travels which we then source out and bring to you. A select few of our titles are purchased directly and are unavailable anywhere else.

Books range from pocket-size to large format photography and illustration.


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Tuesday, December 14, 2010 No comments

Maiwa has recently arrived back from a trip to Peru where we gave an indigo workshop, attended the Tinkuy gathering of weavers, and presented a workshop on marketing craft. While in Peru we placed a large order from the Centre for Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTC). That order has just arrived, cleared customs, and hit the stores. It is a shipment of exhibition quality textiles from the Centre for Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTC).

Cushion covers, small & large bags, table runners, placemats, knitted Peruvian hats, wall hangings, and much more. Everything is hand woven and naturally dyed.

Prices range from $19.95 - $199.00. Here are some photos of some of the items and artisans.

With a drop spindle so close at hand there is never an idle moment.

Hand woven shoulder bag.

Strong hands and the use of a bone beater make for extraordinary tight weaves on
the Peruvian backstrap loom.


A rich variety of colours are obtained from natural dyes.

Here is a link to our email promotion. Have you seen the new arrivals? Let us know what you think in the comments section of our blog.

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Wednesday, December 08, 2010 2 comments

We've just put the first items in the store from a new Jawaja order. This order has taken over a year to complete - what it contains is amazing. New styles that push the boundaries of handmade design and the skills of the traditional leatherworkers of Jawaja. Come into Maiwa and see the new selection of items. For full information on the Artisans Alliance of Jawaja see our website page. Our online store also has a full range of Jawaja products.


At the Jawaja presentation during the 2009 Symposium almost everyone in the audience held up their leather bag to show the cooperative. Do you have one? Send us your comments in the comments section of the blog.


Here's a link to our email promotion.

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Friday, December 03, 2010 No comments
On Saturday November 27th, Kim Davis in a special to the Vancouver Sun featured an interview with Charllotte Kwon, founder of Maiwa Handprints.
"Walking through any of the Maiwa Handprints stores is like stepping into a different world. Rich with layered colours and textures, a palatable sense of tradition and old-world craftsmanship, the spaces offer customers a sensorial feast."

Read the entire story in the Saturday Vancouver sun or online here.
Let us know what you think in the comments section.


Maiwa on Facebook

The greatest social network we know is India. Information can travel from one side of the subcontinent to the other so quickly that we often find someone telling us what we are doing before we decide ourselves. Of course there is that other social network - the internet - and we have started to use it to promote Maiwa and the artisans we work with. We've launched a facebook page, so check us out online.

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Wednesday, December 01, 2010 No comments
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