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the MAIWA JOURNAL

 



NATURAL DYES in BENGAL


Over the past few decades of working in Bengal we've witnessed a remarkable change. It used to be that the skilled yarn dyers in the rural areas north of Kolkata would do natural dyes for our orders, but not so much for themselves. The previous generation knew natural dyes, but the knowledge was fading, and synthetic dyes were fast, easy and cheap.

Fast, easy, cheap, and perhaps (for those using the unregulated dyes available to the Indian market) a bit of a health risk. There were reports of village dyers with health issues, and the ever present issue of waste water from dye studios was always visible.

But over the past five years we've witnessed a renewed desire to use natural dyes. And the motivation for this change is coming from within the younger generation of weavers. Established modern artisans who have rejected urban life in favour of the country. An entire generation that sees the rural area not as a place to get away from, but rather a place to make home.

This generation of weavers are planing for the long term. With renewed skills in natural dyes and a growing international market, weavers are taking control of the dyeing — for the future of their families, and the future of weaving. 

See All Shawls Here





See All Shawls Here




See All Shawls Here


To our U.S. customers – don't forget that the exchange rate works in your favour, it's like an extra discount.


Tuesday, March 30, 2021 No comments

 



It all starts with a trip to visit the threads. These trips happen years before the cloth hits our cutting table. We talk to spinners and weavers. We try to get a sense of what they can do and what they want to do. Many are ambitious and have big dreams for their looms. This is where we begin — combining their dreams with our dreams. It takes imagination to see these twisted strands of cotton as cloth, and then to see that cloth as a garment. It also takes considerable experience to plan the journey the cloth will take.


Have you ever stood beside a handloom with the shuttle being thrown and the heddles thrumming? The sound is unlike anything else in the world. When you hear it you realize that weaving is its own kind of music. With an experienced hand at the loom, the music of the cloth plays every day, little by little, until one day the warp is finished. The threads are cut and the bolt is taken away.


With handloom, the economy of scale and the culture of weaving go hand in hand. In a lot of ways every loom is a sample loom. That makes it easy to try ideas and to experiment. It also means that different types of cloth can go to individual weavers. Some love to create plain weave as quickly as possible. Others are perfectionists who want to be challenged by intricate supplements, double weaves, jamdani patterns and so on.


We don't design a garment by picking what we think will sell from massive swatch-books containing thousands of options. Limits build creativity. And so we start with naturally-dyed artisan cloth. Often it is cloth that we have a collaborative hand in creating. When we work directly with weavers we can make suggestions and occasionally solve a design problem through a weave structure. It is a beautiful way to work.


At our studio, the process of making the quilting for this coat begins. Seven meters of handwoven naturally-dyed cotton are used for the outside and the inside lining. This is combined with another seven meters of organic cotton mull in two layers for the inside padding.  These are all quilted together with vertical lines every inch to create three and a half meters of finished quilted fabric. But we're not done yet...






On the studio table the finished quilted fabric is hand-cut with scissors to the size of our pattern pieces. These are thoughtfully arranged in combinations to balance the colours, lines, and dynamics of the garment.  

The finished coat is a collage in cloth; the perfect canvas to show the best of hand weave and to play with the harmonious palette of natural dyes.



The Maiwa Quilted Coat. Naturally dyed, handwoven quilted cotton, with a contrasting cloth on the inside, creating a reveal when you cuff a sleeve. An accentuated standing collar and an open front without closures.



How we make a garment — designed to be kept and worn for a long, long time.


SEE ALL CLOTHING



To our U.S. customers – don't forget that the exchange rate works in your favour, it's like an extra discount.


Thursday, March 25, 2021 No comments



Made by the same block makers who supply traditional artisans in India, we now have two types of blocks: wooden blocks and brass blocks.

The brass blocks have a ribbon of metal set into a hardwood base. These are traditionally used for line printing – either with pastes, tannins, mordants, or dyes. The brass provides a level of detail not possible with a carved wooden block.


SEE ALL WOODEN BLOCKS

SEE ALL BRASS BLOCKS







BRASS BLOCKS

We are pleased that we have been able to expand our range of printing blocks to include brass blocks. The width of the metal provides an elegant impression. These blocks provide visual impact when worked in black or a subtle finesse when worked to modify dyes. 


Like all our printing blocks, these may be used on textiles and paper. They also look good set on a shelf as a reminder of how ingenious creativity can be. 


SEE ALL BRASS BLOCKS





SEE ALL BLOCKS




SEE ALL BLOCK PRINTED BANDANAS


WOODEN BLOCK
CARVERS


Block printed cloth is incredible. But where do all those wooden blocks come from? From another entire community: the community of block carvers. Wooden blocks eventually wear out and need to be recut. Maiwa's relationship with traditional printing methods keeps an entire community of block carvers working. We also commission blocks to sell in our stores so that all artisans can experience the wonder of working with wooden blocks

Some blocks are designed by us, but most are designed by the very clever geometric imaginations of the carvers themselves. We've just had a huge order arrive - and they are fantastic!

It is not necessary to print with these blocks to appreciate how beautiful they are. They work as extraordinary objects that will inspire you each time you see them.


 
To our U.S. customers – don't forget that the exchange rate works in your favour, it's like an extra discount.

Tuesday, March 23, 2021 No comments



NEW CLOTHING


Some loves last a lifetime – for us it is linen.
We have made our reputation by naturally dyeing linen and using it in our clothing line. We have learned that we need to be patient and slow ... linen needs longer mordanting times, longer drying times, and it behaves differently on the cutting table. But in our opinion, there is nothing like naturally dyed linen. It makes exceptional clothing.


SEE ALL CLOTHING









SEE ALL CLOTHING




SEE ALL SHAWLS





To our U.S. customers – don't forget that the exchange rate works in your favour, it's like an extra discount.
Thursday, March 18, 2021 No comments
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