In this post we feature two of the artisans from the Aranya Natural Dye Unit. The Maiwa team touched down in Munnar (in state of Kerala located in the southern tip of India) after our visits to artisans east of Hyderabad, we scheduled some time with Victoria Vijayakumar and Aranya.

The works being made at Aranya are impressive by any standard, but there is an added element of wonder when one realizes that the artisans at Aranya are physically challenged and so unable to work in the area's largest industry - the tea plantations. In an effort to provide suitable employment for these individuals Tata Tea runs the Aranya Natural Dye Unit, a jam factory, and a paper making facility.

Kalamkari - printed with natural dyes.

As our car gets closer and closer to the ocean our main goal has been to connect with artisans who produce kalamkari blockprints. “Kalam” means “pen” and “kari” means “work.” – so the kalamkari is traditionally a form of decoration done with a stylus. Kalamkari have figures outlined in thin black lines.

Out in the street a giant brush is used to starch the warps.

The Maiwa team is now in the south of India. Once we leave Hyderabad we are off the tourist routes and our pauses for chai, dosa, or coconut water create a bit of a sensation. Our first stop is to visit one of the masterclass workshop participants, Shrinath, who barely had time to return from the masterclass before our rendezvous.

Kolkatta - easy to get around and a pleasure to visit.

A strip of printing tests.

February 1, 2011 Day 5

This is the second-last day of the class. It seems that Bengali time passes much more quickly than regular time.

Yesterday, in addition to the woven shibori, Michel Garcia continued to teach natural dyes. Printing tests were done with ferrous - alum combinations, lac and cochineal to show a variety of shades. The blockprinter's dream? Deep rich colours with a clean white background - no easy thing as any printer can tell you.

Catharine Ellis (far right) speaks to a group about woven shibori.

January 31 Day 4

Today is a special day because today some of us go along with Catharine Ellis to see and create some woven shibori. This is a technique whereby supplemental threads are added to either the warp or the weft. When the piece comes off the loom these threads will be pulled taut to crumple the cloth and then tied tightly to keep it crumpled as it is dyed. This will create a special resist pattern when the work is dyed.

Rural Bengal has many charms. One of them is the loudspeaker bicycle man who passes by just before sundown. What is being broadcast over the loudspeaker? We wish we knew.

January 30, 2011

Today is mordant day. For those who are new to natural dyes, know this: dyes require that fibres be treated with a mordant if the dye is to live a long and joyous life on the cloth or yarn. Exceptions are substantive dyes (like walnut and tannins) that can bind directly unders some conditions. The plot thickens when we understand that for cotton the mordant will not stay with the fibre unless it is first treated with a tannin. Michel encourages us to think of this more complicated relationship in terms of friendship: the friend of my friend is also my friend. Cotton is friends with tannin, tannin is friends with the mordant, and the mordant is friends with the dye.