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the MAIWA JOURNAL

On Thursday October 22nd, Bappaditya (Bappa) Biswas presented On the Banks of the Ichhamati. The woven textiles told the story of the famous blue mutiny - an uprising caused by British planters forcing the peasant population to grow indigo rather than food. Bappa spoke eloquently on Bengal, its history and weaving traditions. It was our first exhibition held at our new exhibition space in Maiwa East. Attendance was good and the space was full. Music was provided by Red Light Monastery. Here are some photos from the event.







Thursday, October 29, 2009 No comments
Last night was our live video conference with the Jawaja artisans - it was a pivotal event but before we get to that post we need to catch up on a couple of lecture reviews.

Wild Fibres
Linda Cortright

On Thursday October 22, Linda Cortright gave her lecture Wild Fibers. Linda focused on cashmere goats and her travels to the Himalayas. She gave wonderful detail on some of the social aspects of the animals - few of us knew that goats were kept from freezing to death through the addition of sheep to the flock. Linda also told us everything we wanted to know about the fibers themselves - down to the width in microns. She talked about her travels generally, about offers of live goats to take home, about how many cups of butter tea she could drink to be hospitable and about how to stay warm in the desperate cold. Linda also explaned how she started Wild Fibers magazine - the very first issue of which focused on qiviuk - the subject of the next evenings lecture ...




Working Across Hemispheres: Arctic Fibre and Peruvian Weaves
Fernando Alvarez

On Friday the 23rd the hall was filled again to hear from Fernando Alvares. Fernando was born in Peru, moved to Canada, and saw an opportunity to interact with the Inuit to collect the downy underhairs of the Arctic musk ox known as Qiviuk. These he took back to peru where he met with traditional Andean spinners and knitters to spin the fiber (sometimes in combination with guanaco and vicuña). During the question and answer period Fernando introduced Marcelina Charri and Maria Lima who travelled from Peru to teach their workshop. The audience asked: given how many fibers the women had worked with, which was their favourite? The answer without hesitation - qiviuk.



Warped up ...

Tonight Elizabeth Barber delivers her lecture - Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years. (sold out) and tomorrow night we are pleased to present Bridging Cultures Through Design: The Importance of Place with Mimi Robinson.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009 No comments

The denial of a visa by the Canadian High Commission to Indian dignitary Ashoke Chatterjee is making waves in India. On Sunday October 25 India's paper DNA ran a quarter page article on the situation. In addition we have received a number of letters expressing support for both the symposium and the artisans and outrage at the denial. The Jawaja presentation will still take place via a special video conference set-up.

Here is a link to the paper (archives require a membership) and the full text of the article:

Denied visa, artisans miss global meet

Canadian high commission refuses permission to AAJ members citing lack of legitimate business purpose

DNA Correspondent

The achievements of artisans from a hamlet Jawaja in Ajmer district of Rajasthan went in vain when their team accompanied by former director national Institute of Design, Ashoke Chatterjee was denied visas to attend global Maiwa symposiusm being organised in Vancouver by the Maiwa foundation.

The symposium, opened on October 19, provides a platform for craft development and allows craft artisans to display their talent.

According to Chatterjee, the Canadian authorities in Delhi stated that visas were denied due to lack of "legitimate business purpose".

The group belonging to Artisan Alliance of Jawaja (AAJ) had been invited to share three decades of development experience through an experiment that is globally acknowledged for its significance and has had an influence well beyond craft sector.

The artisans, who were scheduled to attend the symposium, are disappointed as they lost a golden opportunity to show their talent globally.

"We have worked for 30 years to develop and hone this art but a lifetime opportunity is lost for not-so-strong a point. We fulfiled all formalities for issuing of visa but the authorities denied it," said Sukhdev Bhatt, a leather craftsman with Artisan Alliance of Jawaja.

One representative each from the leather group and the weaver group of the alliance were to attend the symposium.

Now, with the help of some groups in Canada, the artisans have been allowed to participate in the symposium through a video conferencing to be held on October 28 at IIMA's Ravi J Matthai Centre in Ahmedabad. Nearly six members of both leather and weaver groups of the alliance are planning to participate in the video conferencing and recover some loss of opportunity.
The AAJ has been recognised as a remarkable development effort over last three decades and its artisans are known for linking traditional craft skills with contemporary opportunities and demonstrating ability of the poorest to work for change.

Chatterjee rued that visa rejection is symbolic of both neglect of crafts at high level of decision making worldwide and enormous gap between the rhetoric of donor nations and what they can actually deliver on the ground level.



Sunday, October 25, 2009 No comments
Sheila Paine, who presented her talk on October 20th. Handed us a letter the other day. She has kindly granted us permission to reprint it here.

October 22, 2009
Dear Charllotte

I was very moved by Ashoke Chatterjee's talk last night, both by what he told us of the plight of Indian craftsmen and by the whole story of the power of politicians in preventing him coming to Canada.

I was also last night that I realized what a great achievement Maiwa is. You have a lot to be proud of and I feel really priviledged to have been invited to take part in your symposium - it is very much more than just the textile gathering I had presumed it to be.

I send my congratulations on all your work and my best wishes for the future of Maiwa. I am greatly enjoying the symposium and thank you for all your kind hospitality.

Shelia Paine

Saturday, October 24, 2009 1 comments
[Update Dec 4, 2009. The visa issue resurfaces in The Vancouver Globe and Mail - full text here ]

We run here Charllotte Kwon's introduction to Ashoke Chatterjee's presentation From Gandhi to Globalization: Craft and Human Development. Those of you who were at the lecture will understand why. Those who could not attend, please read on...

It is perhaps one of the proudest moments of my life to be able to introduce Ashoke Chatterjee as a presenter in the Maiwa Textile Symposium. Ashoke is one of the most eloquent voices for craft and artisans that we have ever known. He is both an activist and has a great presence which commands attention. He has clarity that guides and gently corrects us. Be we makers, farmers, or traders. He helps us find our own clarity and we rediscover why we do what we do.

At this point in holding our fifth symposium I deeply needed him to share his perspective on this symposium and I wanted the audience to be exposed to his ideas. He is direct and honest. I wanted him to give his opinion on the value of the symposium. I was prepared for one of two answers: Yes this has a great impact and is of importance to the survival of craft. No, Charllotte, your energy could be better spent elsewhere.

But it is with great sadness, frustration and a building anger that I must tell you that he cannot be here in person.

As many of you may know it is difficult to get Canadian visa’s for Indian artisans. We understand that there are many bureaucratic hoops and much paperwork involved in this process. But we have persevered over the years and been successful in bringing weavers from Bengal, embroiderers from the Kutch Desert, and blockprinters from Bagru and Kutch.

We begin this process in April in order to ensure a visa by October. We anticipate at least three rejections. You should know what is in the “Binder” that we provide for ALL artisans visiting from outside Canada. Three years of financial statements for Maiwa, letters from the Vancouver Museum, Welcome letters from the Governor General of Canada, The Minister of Culture, The Mayor of Vancouver. Three years of past Symposium books, promotional materials etc. The binder is about two inches thick when complete. We send a binder like that for each and every person we hope to visit Canada.

We were, however, quite shocked then when we were told that Mr. Ashoke Chatterjee, a man with impeccable credentials was denied a visa for entry to Canada. Mr Chatterjee spent 25 years as head of the India’s NID - National Institute of Design. He has been involved with institutional development at Shristi School of Design (Bangalore), Indus Valley School of Design and Architecture (Karachi), Royal College of Art (UK). He has been the director of Crafts Council of India and is currently honourary advisor. He holds a current US visa, a current UK visa and an expired Canadian visa.

The reasons given by the Canadian Government are that Mr Chatterjee has no business ties to Canada. Neither is the Maiwa Symposium considered a "legitimate business purpose." The denial is final and not open to appeal.

We had hoped to read welcoming letters sent to us from the Governor General of Canada and other political representatives and dignitaries. However, after this shocking and farcical refusal, we are too ashamed and embarrassed to accord that honour to a representative of the Canadian Government. The farce deepens when we read recent reports of the Canadian Government’s attempts to increase trade with India and Prime Minister Harper’s pending visit of November of this year.

We had gone through the application for the two Jawaja artisans – one a weaver and one a leatherworker. We knew this would be a challenge and were prepared. We’ve gone through three applications. Maiwa and the artisans met every question with an accepted answer and we both met every requirement - but still the application was denied.

This lecture tonight is really in two parts. To really understand the full scope of what is happening you must come back on the 27th to the Jawaja lecture. In my opinion this whole symposium is incomplete without the voice of the Jawaja group. It is, after all, for the artisans that we even have these discussions.

They have worked now for over a year preparing a workshop and a presentation. Next Tuesday when you will be priviledged to witness the multimedia presentation that they had hoped to present while they sat among us. This was created in collaboration with a team of NID students. This is part of their story. In addition they have prepared a lecture and samples of their work.
For the Jawaja group this was literally the opportunity of a lifetime. The first time ever that they were able to tell their story themselves.

We have organized a video conference solution to these problems. We have had a fantastic symposium thus far. We are mustering our strengths to overcome these difficulties. And I, personally am making a plea. We have all enjoyed an amazing program so far – we have learned, been moved, changed, been inspired, now I am asking you to come and support the Jawaja artisans next Tuesday. Tell your friends, tell your family, advocate. I assure you, you will not be disappointed – both tonight and the 27th will be very special evenings.

These are the issues of human development and trade. We are not speaking in the abstract. And so let me present Mr. Ashoke Chatterjee.

We encourage those who are indignant to express this in writing to any or all of the following:

Trade Minister Stockwell Day
Immigration Minister Jason Kenney
The Honourable Kevin Krueger, British Columbia Minister of Tourism, Culture and the Arts
Your local Member of Parliment


Here are some links to support materials:

Canada: Globe and Mail Dec 4 Rick Salutin - Or you can play the Jewish Card


India: Times of India Nov 17 Avoid Canada. Our ties with the country will grow better.

Canada: Globe and Mail Nov 13 Opportunity Knocks - Time to Pursue Free Trade With India

India: DNA - Ahmedebad Oct 24 Denied visa. artisans miss global meet

Canada: Globe and Mail Aug 22 India is Booming - Trade with Canada Isn't

Thursday, October 22, 2009 7 comments

It is late at night and we have just come back from the lecture hall. Last night (Oct 18) Mr. Morimoto gave his lecture describing the origins, development and purpose of the Center for Khemer Traditional Textiles. It was a compelling talk from a man who has dedicated his life to always endeavouring to make textiles more beautiful. The audience gave Mr. Morimoto a standing ovation at the end. Above he signs a copy of his book Bayon Moon - Reviving Cambodia's Textile Traditions.

Today Mr. Morimoto introduced the audience at the Exhibition of Cambodian Ikat





Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez Pattern Dreams: Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands

Tonight's lecture was delivered by Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez. The stage was packed both before and after the lecture. The textiles were exceptional. One attendee described Nilda like this "You know, she is from the village, she has left and gone beyond the village, but she's never stopped being for the village." It was a reference to Nilda's time in the United States studying at Berkely and her return to start the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco. Nilda talked candidly about the evolution of skills within the Andean groups, how they are always striving to raise the quality of spinning, knitting and weaving, about the challenges they face, and about how a successful project works only because of the combined efforts of so many committed people. Nilda is the perfect representative of the artisans. Her only regret was that the promotional duties kept her from her weaving which had always been her true love. It was an educational and compelling talk.



Monday, October 19, 2009 No comments
On Friday evening Michel Garcia delivered his lecture Creating a Garden of Natural Dye Plants. Michel brought his deep knowledge of botany and natural dye chemistry, combined it with a subtle humour and wonderful storytelling style to relate how the Lauris Garden of Natural Dye plants was founded and established. Sadly he also told us how, due to local politics and management conflicts the garden is now closed indefinitely. The audience was visibly moved and during the question period people asked what could be done. The garden is the only one of its type in the world, completely dedicated to botanical sources of natural colour.

Michel's ability to explain the role of colourants in the world of flora is unique. Participants in his workshop (which began today) had an opportunity to experience this perspective first hand as they began the preparation of colour lakes.


Here Bappaditya Biswas watches as Michel filters a madder mixture. We have had many inquiries about Michel's lecture and we are happy to answer that, yes it will be one of our future podcasts.


Stephen Huyler Daughters of India: Art and Identity

Last night Stephen Huyler was in top form, delivering a stunning collection of images from his book Daughters of India. Mr Huyler has been travelling to India for 38 years and has been welcomed into the homes and heart of this vast and diverse country. The portraits of individuals show an intimacy and connection that is magical to witness.

For those who were inspired by the stories and imagery here are some of the links to Stephen Huyler's online works.

Daughters of India This site features Daughters of India: Art and Identity the subject of his lecture.

Another way of Seeing This site features Stephen's recently released book "Sonabai: Another Way of Seeing".

StephenHuyler.com This site contains an overview of his works, biographical information and a gallery of images.

Stephen Huyler's online presence is beautifully contructed, colourful and richly animated. We encourage everyone to visit his sites. Stephan is also participating in the Working Traveller workshop (sold out).


Warped up ...

Tonight's lecture is by Morimoto Kikuo who will present Wisdom from the Forest: Cambodian Textile Revivals and tomorrow the Maiwa Store is transformed as we present An Exhibition of Cambodian Ikat from The Institute for Khmer Traditional Textiles.

Sunday, October 18, 2009 No comments
[Update: Here is a link to The Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco.]


The day began early when we picked up Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez and her sister Antonia, drove through the Vancouver rain and arrived at Granville Island. Nilda is very organized and soon we were putting the finishing touches on the set-up for today's exhibition in the Net Loft building. Antonia was plying two strands of wool using a drop spindle, and when we moved down to the main Maiwa store she set up her backstrap loom among the exhibit pieces. One had the clear sense that she could be at home anywhere so long as she had some wool with her.

Nilda gave a clear, direct and witty presentation as she guided the audience through the different pieces and explained technique, colour and weave. Some pieces she said are woven so tightly that they can hold water and there is a competition to take the finished piece and see how long it can hold a certain amount of water.

Nilda will present more of her stories and give a thorough tour of the andean weaving traditions in her lecture: Monday October 19th. Pattern Dreams: Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands. Tickets are still available.

Friday, October 16, 2009 No comments
... tonight with Charllotte Kwon's talk "The True Miracle Fibres: Natural Threads of the World." We are all very excited. Tonight launches the core of the Textile Symposium and we have been planning for this event over a year now. Recently we welcomed Michel Garcia and Bappaditya Biswas to Canada. It is Michel's first visit to North America and Bappaditya's first visit to Canada. Here Michel and Bappaditya are joined by Charllotte Kwon and Maiwa editor Tim Mclaughlin on the Granville Island Ferry Slip.

This afternoon at the Vancouver International Airport we picked up Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez and her sister. After a quick tour of Granville Island and the preparations for the Exhibition of Andean Weaving we dropped our guests at their hotel.

Everyone looks a little excited ...

This year's symposium is among other things a celebration of natural fibers. It is a global theme as 2009 is the International Year of Natural Fibers. Follow the link for more information.

Thursday, October 15, 2009 1 comments
This is an art quilt show featuring cloth dyed by master dyer, Elin Noble (who some of you may remember as an instructor in our 2007 Textile Symposium). Five of Elin's latest works will be shown along with fouteen by Other Strong Women, a group of Canadian and American quilters who meet once a year in Port Townsend. Three of the artists are from BC; two from Vancouver Island.

The show runs October 10 to November 28, 2009. Opening Reception is October 10 from 10am to 2 pm. The exhibition will be held at Penn Cove Pottery. Follow the link for further details.





Friday, October 09, 2009 No comments
We received an e-mail from Indigo specialist Jenny Balfour-Paul updating us on Yo-Yo Ma’s Silk Road Connect project the other day.

Here is Jenny’s update:

We did the Silk Road Connect teacher training workshop in New York last week. This included having a row of indigo dye vats in a narrow concrete walkway next to a children's playground in Harlem, as well as Silk Road musicians doing a drum circle and a National Geographic team doing genome sampling. (Though indigo is the main thread for the pilot project it fits in the wider theme of making connections and encouraging ‘passion-driven education’, to quote Yo Yo Ma). The whole project is a fascinating work in progress that includes many partners such as Harvard educators, New York City educators and curriculum developers, museums such as the Met, and institutions like FIT, Manhattan School Music etc. A lot now depends on the experience of the teachers in the five pilot schools, with much backing, including young ‘indigo fellows’ and an indigo co-ordinator who will liaise with the schools in NYC.

The teachers and indigo co-ordinators are wonderful. I also spent a day in the Met, developing ideas for an ‘indigo trail’, among other things. Great fun and a new way to approach visiting a vast museum. Several other cities are keeping an eye on this very innovative pilot project, so let’s hope it’s a great success. It’s been good to do such positive work this year and fascinating to see the project take shape. It’s not something I have done before with indigo and I have found it an amazing experience and have had to learn a lot too.


Thanks very much to Jenny for sending on the updates and granting us permission to post it here.

Monday, October 05, 2009 No comments
[Update: We've added the names of the looms in the photos to give a bit more information.]

Yesterday instructor Jane Stafford arrived from Salt Spring Island with a van full of looms. We carried them up the stairs to the Maiwa loft for the Weaving in the Maiwa Tradition workshop. It was the last day of September and the late afternoon light was just hitting the golden hour. The looms were prepared with warps inspired by Bengal weaving and in particular the work of Bappaditya Biswas. It is always fascinating to see works in production and here we had a room full of looms ready for tomorrow's students to turn them into textiles.

Also in the loft that afternoon was Fernando Alvarez who was meeting with us to finalize details for the fashion show. Fernando works with Qiviuk (Musk Ox) from the arctic and he also has great familiarity with vicuña, guanaco, alpaca, and merino wools. Soon Jane and Fernando were talking fibers, knits, weaves, and twists. We felt like this was what the symposium was all about, putting one master of rare fibers in the same room with a master of weave structures. We just stand back and watch the energy flow.

Here are the looms being set up for the workshop.




A "folded" Jane. This loom is named after Jane Stafford. It is an 8 shaft loom produced by Louet North America. The most versatile portable loom we've seen.





A Schacht Wolf Pup. A 4 shaft loom warped and ready to go.



The Maiwa table with two open Janes and a homemade loom at the far end of the table.



Thursday, October 01, 2009 No comments
Thursday night was the opening of A Common Thread: Textiles from Stó:lō, South Asian & Mennonite Communities. Ralli quilts from the Maiwa Collection were on display beside quilted works from the Mennonite community and weavings from the Stó:lō. The Reach Gallery did a wonderful job hanging the works in a way that allows visitors to get the full impact of these large textiles. It was a full house for the opening. The show is up until January 3, 2010. We encourage people to see the exhibit and keep an eye on the Reach's other events.










Saturday, September 26, 2009 No comments

With September came the news that the blockprinters of Dhamadka and Ajrakhpur have finalized the purchase of their new land. In the spring of 2009 the Maiwa Foundation organized a series of fundraising auctions to provide capital for the new purchase. The site of the former blockprinting studios had become unusable due to falling water tables. What water there was had increasing concentration of impurities such as iron and salt.

The auctions were a fantastic success. We would like to thank everyone who helped, purchased or donated to make the acquisition of the new lands a reality. The Khatris have sent us these photos as well as many expressions of their sincere gratitude.


Photos of the new land ...





In 2007 Ismail and Razzaque participated in the Maiwa Textile Symposium. We've made the audio from the presentations available as a series of podcasts:

Excerpts from Masters of the Art
Razzaque Mohammed Khatri and Ismail Mohammed Khatri
with Eiluned Edwards
Part 1 - Presentation
Part 2 - Questions from the Audience

Excerpts from
Kismet, Ajrakh, and the Fish of Knowledge:
Collaborating with Craftspeople in India

Eiluned Edwards


Wednesday, September 23, 2009 No comments
Our latest video podcast just went up.

Part 3 - Conclusion
Rosemary Crill


Rosemary Crill explores "the cotton road", sibling to the well known silk road but largely dominated by India's traffic in cotton textiles. In part three Rosemary Crill explores India's trade with the west as the focus shifted from printed cottons to muslins and Kashmir shawls. She concludes her lecture by answering some questions from the audience.

Recorded live at the Maiwa Textile Symposium 2007. This is a video podcast and it contains the images presented during the lecture.

Subscribe in iTunes
Listen to Part 1.
Listen to Part 2.


Indian textiles were exported to the Middle East and the ancient Roman world centuries before Europeans arrived on the subcontinent. Painted cottons and ikat-dyed silks were also sent from the medieval period onwards to Southeast Asian markets, especially in Indonesia, where they were treated as precious heirlooms.

When the Portuguese arrived in India in the wake of Vasco da Gama’s discovery of the sea route to India in 1498, they lost no time in sending embroideries back to Portugal. All of these export markets dealt in textiles that had been carefully adapted to the taste of the buyers, and when the British East India Company started to trade in India in 1600, the textiles they sent back for sale in London also developed a unique style which combined British, Indian, and even Chinese elements into an exotic hybrid. The arrival of painted cottons (chintzes) took Britain by storm in the early 17th century and continued to be so popular well into the 18th century that they were even banned because they were threatening the livelihood of local linen and wool weavers.

This lecture will outline the different markets to which India exported many different types of textiles and will concentrate particularly on the craze for chintz that swept Britain and the Netherlands in the 17th and 18th centuries. Indian muslins and the fine Kashmir shawls that were worn with them were the next great fashion to be based on Indian imports to Europe, and their origins and eventual decline in the mid-19th century will also be discussed.

Rosemary Crill

Rosemary Crill joined the Victoria and Albert Museum’s then Indian Department in 1980 and is now Senior Curator (South Asia) in the Asian Department. She lectures worldwide, specializing in Indian and Islamic textiles and dress and in Indian painting.

Her publications include Indian Ikat Textiles (1997), Colours of the Indus: Costume & Textiles of Pakistan (with Nasreen Askari, 1997), Indian Embroidery (1999), Marwar Painting: A History of the Jodhpur Style (1999), and Trade, Temple and Court: Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection (co-author with Ruth Barnes and Steven Cohen, 2002). She has contributed to many other books, periodicals, and catalogues, including The Indian Heritage (V&A, 1982), Arts of India 1550-1900 (V&A, 1990), The Arts of the Sikh Kingdoms (V&A, 1999), and Dress in Detail from Around the World (V&A, 2002), and she has recently edited Textiles from India: The Global Trade (Kolkata, 2005) and The Making of the Jameel Gallery of Islamic Art (2006).

Sunday, September 20, 2009 No comments
The new issue has just hit the stands and we are proud to be part of it. This issue contains the story of our journey to Assam in the fall of 2008 that led to the Maiwa Foundation teaching a natural dye workshop in 2009.

Wild Fibers has a mission: " to educate and promote all aspects of the natural fiber industry with special emphasis on sustainable practices and responsible use of natural resources throughout the world. We believe fibers represent an important chapter not only to artisans and cultural development, but an increasing sensitivity to environmental impact as well."

Featuring beautiful photography from around the world, wild fibers is a showcase of animal husbandry, culture and cloth. It is the project of intrepid traveller and fiber enthusiast Linda Cortright.

This fall Linda will be present in Vancouver as part of the Maiwa Textile Symposium. This is a rare opportunity to meet Linda (she is often in rural areas gathering stories for Wild Fibers). Join us on Thursday October 22 for the lecture Wild Fibers.
Thursday, September 17, 2009 No comments
Maiwa is participating in an exhibition of quiltworks at The Reach Gallery Museum in Abbotsford. Ralli Quilts are on loan from the Maiwa Collection and Charllotte Kwon will speak at the opening reception on September 24th. Here is the full press release from The Reach Gallery.

A Common Thread: Textiles from Stó:lō, South Asian and Mennonite Communities
September 24 – January 3
Opening Reception September 24 at 7 pm

The Reach Gallery Museum Abbotsford, working in collaboration with the University of the Fraser Valley (UFV) Faculty of Arts, The UFV Centre for Indo-Canadian Studies, the Mennonite Central Committee (MCC), Stó:lō First Nations educators and artisans and the Maiwa Foundation, opens A Common Thread: Textiles from Stó:lō, South Asian and Mennonite Communities on September 24 at 7 pm. A Common Thread explores a tapestry of cultural traditions from weaving to quilting to the story-telling that embroiders each piece of work.

The partners have been working on the exhibition since early 2009. “Although this is an exhibition related to the celebration of the United Nations International Year of Natural Fibres, the focus is about bringing communities together” says The Reach curator Scott Marsden. “It has already brought together a diverse group to work together on this show and now will bring the larger community together through the universal language of textiles.”

The Stó:lō weaving tradition, which was almost lost until the 1960’s, is now a part of an international cultural renaissance of Salish weaving. Today Stó:lō weaving contains many beautiful designs each with specific symbols and meanings. One of the last examples of a traditional Salish woven blanket (circa 1830) will be in the exhibition courtesy of the Chilliwack Museum and Archives.

The Mennonite Central Committee has contributed quilts from quilters that incorporate a range of traditional and contemporary motifs. The Mennonite quilts are about family connections. Through quilting, utilitarian objects are elevated with imagination, enterprise and love to the status of an original art form.

The Ralli quilts from the India Pakistan region are made from fragments of other fabrics and are an integral part of the cultures from which they originate. The Ralli quilting tradition goes back thousands of years. Maiwa Foundation’s Charllotte Kwon says, “Ralli quilts tell the stories of women and the strength of tradition, history and community.” The Maiwa Foundation, established in 1997 by Maiwa Handprints Limited of Vancouver, is contributing these artefacts that attest to the great creative talents of their makers.

Artist Lois Klassen’s Comforter Art-Action: Princess City installation will also be part of the exhibition. Since 2001 Klassen has hosted Comforter Art-Action, an ongoing material response to human displacement that has involved over 200 individuals and groups from over 20 countries and was recently featured at The Glenbow Museum’s Sew City exhibition in Calgary.

On September 26 from 1 to 5 pm the Reach will host A Common Thread Forum. Speakers include:

Princess Urmila Devi - India - Treasured Textiles from Private Collections
Lois Klassen - Comforter Art-Action and other Bedtime stories
Val Pankratz - Quilt Trunk Show

Two lecturers from Maiwa’s bi-annual symposium will also be presenting at The Reach Gallery Museum Abbotsford. Tuesday, October 20 at 7 pm author Stephen Huyler will discuss his book Daughters of India: Art and Identity. In this lecture he will present individual profiles and place them in context of broader Indian textile arts and the development of women’s creativity as a part of their own personal empowerment.

Dr. Elizabeth Wayland Barber speaks on her book Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years: Women, Cloth and Society in Early Times on Thursday, October 29 at 7 pm. Dr. Barber illustrates how the economic engine of the ancient and early modern worlds was the fabric of industry and almost the exclusive province of women. Dr. Barber is Professor of Archaeology and Linguistics and co-chair of the Classics Program at Occidental College in Los Angeles.

A Common Thread opens September 24 with a reception with wine and hors d’oeuvres from 7 to 9 pm and opening remarks from 7:30 to 8 pm. Also opening on September 24, Stories to pass on … by Deanna Bowen, September 24 to November 8 in The Great Hall and Passions in Abstract by Myrtle-Anne Rempel, SFCA, CSPWC, September 24 to November 1 in The Grotto and South Gallery. The Reach is located at 32388 Veteran’s Way (corner of Trethewey and South Fraser Way) in Abbotsford.

Admission to the exhibitions, forum and talks is free. For more information please visit thereach.ca or call 604-864-8087.

-30-


Tuesday, September 15, 2009 No comments
Today we dye with indigo. As usual it is a magical and transforming experience. And as usual everything that can be put into a dyevat is usually blue by the end of the day. This is the moment when the students who may have been hanging back come forward and get fully involved. There is no resisting the pull of the blue pot. This is our last dye and when the last hanks are overdyed with indigo our palette is complete.

When overdyeing the yarns are only rinsed. But now, after the final colour they receive a thorough cleaning. As with washing in Morocco there is some hesitation at this stage. There is a real fear that the colour they have worked so hard to get will all go down the drain.

The finished yarns are divided into sets so that each student can leave with a full set of sample yarns. This is very important. If they are to be able to match colours they will need these samples so that they have a clear visual indicator - both of what has been done and what can be done.

There are certificates to handed out to the students. They are signed by Charllotte, Chandan, and Dr. Dipali Devi. Dr. Devi, a sericulturalist with IASST (the Institute of Advanced Scientific Study and Technology, Guwahati) assisted in the organization of this workshop and showed a keen interest in natural dye techniques. We are hopeful that as a representative of such a prestigious institution she can continue the necessary work of disseminating information to artisans.

As the students check the recipes against the sample yarns the questions begin. Now is the time when we find out how much they have understood. Tricky concepts like weight of fiber (or WOF an essential measure of dye concentration based on a percentage of the weight of material to be dyed) are repeated. The students are very happy, and feel very satisfied with their new knowledge. They have accomplished a great amount in three short days and we are proud of them and to be working in Assam.





Saturday, September 12, 2009 No comments

We are always a little worried as the second day begins. Will the artisans return? Working in different languages makes it difficult to know how much has been understood, and there are substantial pressures on these artisans for their time. When we planned the workshop we wanted to begin at nine and end at five. In discussions with Chandan, he thought that we could not ask this - they would not show up. At the end of the first day we decided to push a little. "Who can be here early tomorrow morning? We want to start at nine AM." Every hand went up. When we arrived at eight AM to set-up they were waiting for us.

On the second day we begin with what we call the singular dyes. For this workshop these will be lac, madder, pomegranate, marigold and myrobalan. These dyes will each give their own colour and additional colours will be made by overdyeing the first colour with a second dye. So for example, we start with madder on its own and to this we will add madder overdyed with pomegranate, madder overdyed only with lac, madder overdyed first with lac and then with pomegranate and so on. This simple idea is a bit tricky to oversee. The temptation to put all the yarn into the second dyepot, and not hold any back for the first colour, is very strong.

There are about forty students and they split into eight groups. Most are weavers and they all have a tremendous facility with handling the silks. It is really quite extraordinary to watch. A tangle that would take us several hours to negotiate seems to be resolved by them with a few deft flicks of the wrist.

The group is keen and they are "with" us. Still, there are several opportunities for the works to slide off the rails. Charllotte (who as a sign of respect is referred to simply as "Madam") moves from group to group helping and troubleshooting. The task falls mainly to Shirley then to make certain that no one wanders off. A simple thing (like small groups of people chatting) can spell disaster for a workshop. In any culture there is a hierarchy of who does the work and who does not do the work. If individuals stop working to talk it is divisive and almost instantly all the men will also stop. This is especially true if others from the village are watching. We have the advantage in these situations of being teachers, foreigners, and guests. We are from outside the culture and so we insist on a simple rule. You cannot be sitting if Madam is not sitting.

At the end of the second day we have bamboo poles hung with dyed silk. We have worked a long day and the sun has slipped away before the hanks are completely dry. These yarns are so valuable that the artisans will not leave while they are still outside. Only when the silks have been brought inside for the night do they feel comfortable in starting home.



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