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the MAIWA JOURNAL


Saturday night John Gillow presented a detailed and story-filled account of his travels in the Islamic world. It was a visual journey and the audience were fortunate to be able to see and handle the textiles first-hand.



In John's own words his travelling life began like this:

Fourty years ago as a young schoolboy, I travelled to Istanbul. I found myself a cheap place to stay. The next morning I awoke with a start to the call of the muezzin, a sound that was to become increasingly familiar over the decades, as I spent more and more time in the Muslim world.



As I wandered around the bazaar, I was entranced by carpets, furs, beaten brass, carved wood and exotic soilver jewelry, none of which a poor schoolboy’s pockets could afford. What  did find were scraps of Ottoman embroidery, which were then very cheap, and which I bought as presents for my sister, girlfriend, and doting grandmother. I was hooked – not just on the textiles themselves but on the lives of the peasants and nomads who had created them. I resolved there and then to lead a life of travel, focused on finding out more about hand-crafted textiles and their origins.

Bryan Whitehead's lecture on October 2nd is sold out. But his excellent work is on exhibit (and for sale) at the Silk Weaving Studio. A visit is well rewarded.

Saturday, September 28, 2013 No comments

Thursday night the Maiwa Symposium was proud to welcome back international traveller, textile dealer, explorer and author John Gillow. John has published eleven books of textiles documenting diverse techniques, cultures, and fibres. Examples were in the Maiwa store and hung in the Net Loft building.


All the textiles were for sale. They ranged in size from quilts and complete garments to tiny fragments showing some amazing details from indigenous techniques.


John takes the stage again on Saturday night for another sold out lecture. This time he will be presenting Islamic Textiles.

We have ordered a generous selection of John's books from his publisher Thames and Hudson into the Maiwa Stores. These titles will be onhand even after his lectures.

Friday, September 27, 2013 No comments
The first event of the Maiwa Textile Symposium - Bryan Whitehead's exhibition opening.


Join us this Friday September 27 for Quirky Japanese Makimono an exhibition by Bryan Whitehead. The exhibition reception starts at 6pm at the Silk Weaving Studio: 1531 Johnston St. Granville Island, Vancouver, Canada. See the map below.

click for larger version

Bryan's lecture and two workshops are sold out. Check out our website to see more information about Maiwa Events and Lectures.





Monday, September 23, 2013 No comments

India Flint spoke to a capacity crowd on Thursday night as she took the audience through some impressive ways to get colour on cloth. Starting in her native Australia, India showed slides of the many beautiful shades and patterns to be had from eucalyptus leaves. She also explored the options available from river and ocean muds and waters, as well as an extensive variety of plants. The talk included images of India's gallery installations and also her work done in costume design for a number of companies including the West Australian Ballet.

True to the title of her lecture: The Peripatetic Alchemist - Travels with a Dyepot, India started a dye project as soon as she arrived in Vancouver. Within 50 yards of the Net Loft (the event location on Granville Island) India collected a variety of materials including plants and some handmade nails. She made a dye bundle and heated it in a small crockpot that she brought with her. At the conclusion of the lecture India unwrapped the parcel to reveal some remarkable colours.



Our next event is textile author and trader John Gillow presenting African Textiles on September 26th. Tickets are still available here.

Saturday, September 21, 2013 1 comments

Last night Adrienne Sloane took the symposium through a history of knitting with intent. From helping the war effort it the two world wars - "Knit your Bit," to the original yarn bombs - knitted covers to incendiary explosives made in the second world war: Adrienne offered a far reaching reinterpretation of an act that most perceive as one of the most benign. Knitting. 

The talk concluded with some visuals from Adrienne's own award winning practice and a lively question and answer. You can see Adrienne's work online here: adriennesloane.com.

Adrienne will teach two workshops during her visit to Vancouver: Sculptural Knitting and Wire Knitting.

Next up: India Flint Thursday September 19. Sold out. 

Wednesday, September 18, 2013 No comments
Thursday night Michel Garcia opened the 2013 Maiwa Textile Symposium lecture series with a talk about the remarkable world of plant-based mordants.

Michel Garcia teaching at the
Secrets of the Dye Garden
The talk was far-reaching; touching on bio-accumulators of alum, historical dye-use, and the motivations behind such colourful figures as Edward Bancroft - double agent during the American revolution and author of a treatise denying the possibility of a plant-based mordant. Also presented during the talk were some geologic underpinnings to cultural dye practices. Central to the lecture, however, was symplocos a bio-accumulator of alum that can be used as a mordant.

[Together with Sara Goodman and William Ingram, Michel Garcia has put together an overview of dyeing with symplocos - including recipes for different fiber types. The PDF can be found on the Mawia web site.]

Next up in the lecture series is Adrienne Sloan - Unravelling Political Knitting. From Mme Defarge to yarn bombing - Adrienne will take the audience through knitting with intent.  Not to be missed!
Friday, September 13, 2013 No comments
The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes
What they are and how to use them

This This is the last vat recipe in our series "The Organic Vat." It follows our introduction, About the Organic Vat, our general procedure post, Indigo: The Fruit Vat, and our last post 3 Organic Vat Recipes.

The Ferrous Vat

This is called the “1, 2, 3” vat – it is a cold vat that is great for cotton and silk. It is not recommended for wool because of the iron.



The Ferrous Vat gives a beautiful dark indigo and has the advantage of being a cold vat that keeps for months. It is good for printing as it does not require long dips. It is a vat that has been known throughout history.

For a vat of about 15 to 20 litres
  •    20 g powdered indigo (1)
  •    40 g ferrous sulphate (2)
  •    60 g lime (calx) (3)
Prepare as with the fruit vat.

Start with hot water – almost boiling. Add the indigo to the vat, then the ferrous sulphate, then the lime. Wait for the vat to turn yellowy-green. Check for the bronze surface and the dark bubbles. Begin to dye with short dips (10-15 minutes). Oxidize in water and then the air.

These organic vats were originally developed by French dye chemist and botanist, Michel Garcia. Michel has been teaching and lecturing at the Maiwa Textile Symposium since 2009. He has worked with Maiwa in India as a dye specialist, most notably at the 2011 Maiwa Masterclass. Michel and Maiwa founder Charllotte Kwon meet on a regular basis to conduct natural dye research, explore recipes and test procedures. Together they are always looking for techniques that give the most exquisite colours - made to outlast the fibres they adorn.


The Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes
Table of Contents

- PREV   
Thursday, September 05, 2013 13 comments
This is our last day of our natural dye workshop at Jane Stafford Textiles. It is the day when we teach indigo. Indigo sits alone in the line-up of natural dyes. It has its own unique chemistry and behaviour. When items emerge from the dye pot it is nothing short of spectacular.

Charllotte Kwon opens up the last day with instructions for gathering the samples.

The workshop opened with explanations on how to gather and label samples. Students make a comprehensive swatch book with the combinations of dyes used carefully annotated.

The group moves outside where we have a perfect day for dyeing.
Many of the techniques that Charllotte taught can be found in the Maiwa Guide to Natural Dyes. Check out our posts on Indigo and our recent posts about the Organic indigo vat.

Charllotte explains how to make an indigo dye pot.

Charllotte and Gale Anderson-Palm check the pH
in a dye pail.

Gail demonstrated some clamp resist. To see what goes on she used
clear plexiglass. You can see the dye creeping in on the edge.

Yarns and swatches overdyed with indigo.
Students divided up their samples and a certain number of them were overdyed with indigo. After the required overdyeing the pots are opened up to individual pieces. Students worked with some stitch and clamp resist. Indigo is always an exciting end to a workshop.

Jane Stafford herself - unfurls her scarf after a dip in the indigo.
That wrapped up our Salt Spring Island workshop. If you are a resident of Salt Spring or the nearby areas and would like to take a workshop like this keep your eyes on Jane Stafford's web site and make certain you subscribe to her newsletter.


Sunday, September 01, 2013 No comments
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